Camino ’24: Day 4


Yesterday I went to buy groceries while hungry. That was a mistake I paid dearly today.

My bag was a bit heavier than usual, thanks to some sort of chocolate chip cookies. Nothing I could do about it: I’m a sucker for those.

Luck was on our side today however: the weather was cloudy but not cold, with the lightest of drizzles to keep us fresh, as we left Santoña.

After passing a nice beach, Playa de Berria, we inadvertently followed the bike path instead of the waking path. We realized our mistake when we stopped at a bar for a quick coffee. In the end, we committed to the route we had already taken.

Going back was not an option.

We apparently skipped a nice beach and the town of Noja because of this. So be it.

My feet hurt the rest of the way, especially the right one. It constantly feels like it’s on fire.

The timing of the different small villages we entered didn’t quite align with our appetite. We basically arrived at our destination in Güemes without having a proper lunch, in the early afternoon.

We entered a bar in the small town and asked if we could eat something. The place was quite full and some people were drinking and some were eating. The bartender told us that eating was not an option. As it was nearly 3 PM, I thought maybe the kitchen was already closed.

After that, however, he served some food to people who arrived after us. What the hell.

The albergue

The good thing about Güemes, however, is the albergue. Not its location, which is 20 minutes uphill from the town where it’s supposed to be, damn it. What’s nice about the albergue is the atmosphere you find there. There are plenty of volunteer hospitaleros and pilgrims here.

It was nice to feel the atmosphere of a true albergue again. So far we have stayed in private rooms, which are far more comfortable. Tonight, on the other hand, we’re back to a more authentic Camino experience.

I saw young solo pilgrims who reminded me of the friends I made in 2013. In them, I saw the faces of Caleb, Ji, Adeya, Claus and many more. It was a nice feeling.

Camino universidad de vida

We are all going to have dinner together in a couple of hours. I’m looking forward to it. Hopefully we’ll make some friends and see them through Santiago.

First, however, we all have to get there. By judging some of the faces, feet and the way some pilgrims walked, it’s not going to be easy for all of them.

For the first time, however, I’m counting myself among those who will not have an easy time dealing with the walk. There’s something in my body which is quite different from 11 years ago. I guess it’s the effect of getting older.

Luckily I’m in good hands. We’ll get through this together, I’m sure. Laura walked a lot better than yesterday, thanks also to a knee pad which helped stabilize her knee that hurt most.

Today I was the one in worse shape. Hopefully the shorter stage will help us recover some energies for tomorrow.

The laundry duties are calling me now. Got to go.

Cheers.