Day 8: pacific detours

I’m so tired I don’t even want to write this article. Though I haven’t walked more than usual, this morning I felt like both my body and mind wanted to quit.

If only one of the two complains, it’s no big deal: the mind can overrule the body when something hurts and the body can encourage the mind when motivation is low. But if both are on strike at the same time, shit will eventually the fan.

The first part of the walk was pretty ugly, alongside a big road and going through some tunnels.

The day began already in a bad fashion when all the hotels (and similar) in Hiwasa, the town where I wanted to stop, were full. Time for Plan B then: Mugi.

The town of Mugi is around 15 Km away from Hiwasa, which is in turn 25 Km away from my starting point. Doing a 40 Km stage right now is not an option, so I decided to take a longer detour to Hiwasa and then take a train to Mugi in the late afternoon.

This allowed me to reach the coast and stay alongside of it for quite some time. It was nice to smell the sea and hear the waves continuosly crashing into the rocks. It reminded me of Fisterra, at the end of the Camino.

The beach of Hiwasa, where baby sea turtles are released into the sea ever year.
Turtles everywhere. You can see the temple in the background.

Somehow I managed to arrive at the temple #23, Yakuōji, which is nested on top of a hill and has a great view over the town.

This part of Shikoku looks very interesting and charming. I wish I had more time to explore it.

The place where I’m staying tonight is very humble and my reservation was only possible sudomari, i.e. without meals.

Luckily a supermarket was just a few steps away. It was my first time in a Japanese supermarket and I bought a shitload of sashimi at a laughable price, compared to Europe.

The owners where surprised at how much fish I bought, before engaging in a long and exhausting conversation about my plans for the next day.

The view from Yakuōji.

Speaking of tomorrow, I’m way too tired now to think about it. 

I bought a box of cookies for breakfast. Hopefully they will provide me with some inspiration and courage for the road that will be ahead of me.

Time to sleep now. It’s almost 8.30 PM. The daily agenda of a pilgrim is, as a matter of fact, very different from the one of a Berliner.

Alarm at 5.30, breakfast at 6.00, my boots will hit the road soon after that.

Stay tuned for more.